Spence Atlas 01: Virgin Gorda
The best trips feel like you played it exactly right. You eat well, sleep deeply, and move because it feels good. A well-placed court is arguably the ultimate way to stay active on vacation.
Virgin Gorda has that effect. We relied on a bit of local intel. Kelvin, the pro at Little Dix Bay, knows every good band and every bad bounce. Sonja knows where to go, what to drink, and which beaches are worth the walk.
Between sets, we followed their lead.
Best meal after a morning tennis session?
Sonja: Bath and Turtle on top of the Baths or Little Dix Bay Pavilion.
Kelvin: Head straight to the Pavillion at Little Dix Bay for the continental breakfast buffet.
ONE DISH YOU HAVE TO TRY?
Kelvin: Conch Chowder
Sonja: Conch in Butter Sauce at Hog Heaven. Have a Blondie (their signature drink) and enjoy the view of North Sound. If seafood is not your thing, go for the Baked Chicken at Mermaids
ONE THING NOT TO MISS ON THE ISLAND?
Kelvin: Sunset from any bar.
Sonja: The Boulders provide a unique experience and great photo op.The Copper Mines Ruin is a historic site with views.
OTHER EXPERIENCES THAT ARE SINGULAR TO VIRGIN GORDA/BVI?
Kelvin: The people
Sonja: The BVI has over 60 islands and cays, if you can, take a day trip to the outer islands.
LOCALS ONLY: ANY PLACES YOU DON’T USUALLY SHARE BUT YOU WILL WITH US?
Kelvin: Blue House and Thelma's Hideout (local night clubs).
Sonja: Saba Rock Spa. Excellent Negronis and a spa. Head to Gun Creek, There’s a free, 15 minute ferry ride there.
PREFERRED COCKTAIL OR BEER FOR BVI?
Kelvin: Botella at VGYH (Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour) and Painkiller.
Sonja: Painkiller or Rum punch.
Best way to get around the island?
Kelvin: All Open-Air safaris
Sonja: Rent a car.
Which other islands are must-visits?
Sonja: Anegada and Jost Van Dyke.
Kelvin: Soggy Dollar and Foxy's at Jost Van Dyke is a must. Visit Anegada for total privacy.
Cultural etiquette or local knowledge visitors should know?
Kelvin: Greetings are big here. Always wish everyone,“good morning,” “good afternoon,” “good evening,” and “good night.”
Sonja: Avoid going swimming at the Baths when the sea is rough because of the rip currents. The resorts in North Sound have free ferries and convenient schedules, check them out to enjoy lunch or dinner.
THE BAR OR RESTAURANT THAT LOCALS ACTUALLY GO TO?
Sonja: Mermaids
Kelvin: CocoMaya
BEST SPOT FOR SUNDOWNERS THAT ISN’T OVERRUN?
Kelvin: The Rum Room
Sonja: CocoMaya
GOOD COFFEE IN THE MORNING BEFORE OR AFTER HITTING?
Sonja: Moka Cafe
Kelvin: Brew Coffee at Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
BEST DIVE BAR?
Kelvin: Saba Rock
BEST PLACE TO HEAR LIVE MUSIC?
Kelvin: Every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday at Little Dix Bay.
Sundays at Chez Bamboo.
Sonja: Leverick Bay on Fridays.
BEST TRULY LOCAL FOOD STAND/RESTAURANT?
Kelvin: Island Pot
Where to Stay
We'll be upfront about it: we were invited to Little Dix Bay to shoot our Spring '26 campaign. We said yes immediately — and not just because of the courts, though the courts were reason enough. Six tennis courts, two pickleball setups, hard court and artificial grass, two lit for night play. It's a serious racquet facility on an island that takes play seriously. You can book private lessons with the pro, join clinics, drill sessions. The setting helps: tropical gardens, hillsides rising behind the baseline, that particular kind of quiet you only get when you're surrounded by water on all sides.
But the courts were only part of it. Little Dix Bay has a backstory worth knowing. In 1958, conservationist Laurance Rockefeller arrived on Virgin Gorda — then a struggling agricultural outpost — with an unusual idea: a resort that worked with the land instead of against it. He found a crescent bay he called the "wilderness beach" and built something around it that the island hadn't seen before. When it opened in 1964, Little Dix set a template for what a Caribbean retreat could be — cottages tucked into the hillside, a white-sand beach that earned its reputation quickly, and a philosophy that put the landscape first.
Rosewood has held that line. The property still feels like it belongs here — sheltered by green peaks, open to the bay, unhurried in a way that isn't performed. We were there to work. We didn't entirely manage it. Whether you're here to play or here to disappear — ideally both — we can't think of a better place to do it.
A few random highlights from our stay:
- Happening upon sea turtles while taking a quick dip in the ocean.
- A newfound love for Carib beer,which has a light, crisp taste and goes with everyone from sushi to tacos.
- Bad decisions (aka slightly bizarre mixology) at the Rum Bar.
- Morning sessions with pro Kelvin (before 9AM) to truly earn the epic breakfast at the Pavillion.
- Arranging a trip to the infamous Baths, timed for a late afternoon dip after the cruise ships hordes have left.
